Mexico City Jet Lag Journal: Cool Cultura
While in Mexico City, we hit up quite a few – our absolute favorite being the home of Frida Kahlo which warranted its own dedicated post. We were the first people in the Museo Soumaya and as we wound our way up the circular corridors to the top floor, we were alone among the gorgeous Rodin sculptures. Forgive the coloring and the blurriness of the last photo (because the lighting was so dark in the museum to preserve the work), but the last photo of that armadillo-type creature was created entirely out of teeny tiny feathers glued together.
Diego Rivera’s home is in the lovely, upscale neighborhood of San Angel, just outside of Mexico City. This is the famous Museo Estudio Diego Rivera constructed of two side-by-side structures with one narrow bridge joining the two. It’s quieter and more peaceful in San Angel, and Diego’s home is bizarrely clinical. Few comforts and lots of concrete, very different from Frida’s home with its multitudes of colors, flora, mismatched fabrics, and iridescent shells set into the garden walls. His studio is enormous, sunny, and filled with little papier-mâché dolls (called juguetes) and giant papier-mâché skeletal creatures (called calaveras).
So much turquoise all over Mexico City: everywhere we turned at our hotel and throughout the streets and museums. I happened to match!
It was the Museo Dolores Olmedo that put us in a bucolic estate setting in the middle of busy, vibrant Mexico City. This is in the Xochimilco neighborhood in southern DF. Peacocks roam the grounds and have no problem cutting you off on your walk, turning towards you, and shaking their feathers to show you who’s boss. The sound is a like a dry maraca. Also roaming the grounds are gray, hairless dogs called soloitzcuintles who are thoroughly ugly but quiet and harmless. “Doña Lola” donated her entire house and grounds upon her death, including all the artwork inside – a remarkable collection of Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Angelina Beloff (Diego’s Russian-born first wife). Plus, there is a beautiful little outdoor cafe where we ordered sopes – chorizo and avocado-topped extra thick tortillas made of fried masa (ground maize soaked in lime).
Check out our other Mexico City Jet Lag Journals: our beautiful hotel Condesa DF, the restaurants, shops and luchas wrestling we indulged in and explored, and the satisfying and inspiring Museo Frida Kahlo.