Chicks in the Sticks: Greenport, NY
I frequently post about lovely trips to the South Fork of Long Island (Southampton specifically, with its museums, shopping, and wineries) but recently the two halves of A+S joined up for a weekend in the beautiful North Fork. Greenport is a quaint village that was settled in the 1600s by colonists from New Haven who sailed across Long Island Sound and figured they went far enough.
Kyra and I booked a beautiful house on Airbnb and spent the weekend slowly wandering the main street with its shops and admiring the fall foliage. How cute is our favorite pal Lil’ Erinn? She is our mascot and our own personal ray of sunshine that we bring around with us.
The North Fork is truly wine country. On weekends in the summers, busloads of bachelorette parties take tours of the wineries in Greenport and surrounding towns. We were lucky to avoid that because it was nippy and a little grey outside. We went to Kontokosta Winery (a winery that was recommended to me by an oboist and music producer I met in Iceland who asked for my number and then never called) in order to spend a chunk of the day outdoors and drink a nice glass of local red overlooking the cold, rocky shoreline.
Because Greenport has a deep and protected harbor, it became a major whaling port and shipbuilding industry. Thousands of fishermen were employed here (it’s hard to imagine it that way now, as it’s so sedate and quiet). It was also a huge oystering center and at one point in the 1900s there were over a dozen oyster processing plants in town. Since then, the oyster industry has shrunk and Greenport turned its attention to tourism. Forbes named Greenport one of the prettiest towns in the United States in 2011.
Wandering around town, I came across the most gorgeous rusty colors of the boats at Greenport Yacht & Ship Building Company. Originally a commercial shipyard in the mid-1800s, the company evolved and now builds fishing boats, oystering boats, and private yachts.
Following the fishing/oystering theme, the A+S gals visited The Frisky Oyster for festival champagne cocktails. A modern American bistro, we sat at the bar and ordered oysters on ice and brussels sprouts salad.
We spent two really special mornings lazing around the house. Erinn woke up one morning, ambled downstairs into the sunshine in the living room, and took a nap on the couch. We made pot after pot of super strong Costa Rican coffee given to me as a gift by my favorite colleague from her recent yoga retreat there. I visited Blue Duck Bakery to pick up pumpkin bread. Don’t you love when you’re the only person in a bakery and everything they just made fresh can potentially belong only to you? Another morning, the girls slept late and I snuck out for a run across the train tracks to the aquamarine, super-twee, kinda creepy but totally awesome Silver Sands Motel on the water’s edge.
A+S pals having a cozy lunch at Bruce & Son Cheese Emporium:
Our final meal in Greenport was so satisfying at American Beech. Newly opened in Summer 2015, and with brand new crisp white suites to stay in above the restaurant, it truly looks like Montauk: gray and white painted wooden plank floors, ropes weaving from the tops of banquettes to the roof in a nod to Greenport’s seafaring history, and bright pops of yellow in stools, pillows, and chrysanthemums.
This will not be our last visit to Greenport. The restaurants and shopping were great, it was low key and beautiful, and probably the best for us city-dwellers – it’s 3 hours on the Long Island Railroad, and once you’re off the train in town, you can walk absolutely everywhere. That means no rental car: no expense of a rental car, and no worrying about having cocktails at dinner and having to drive home afterwards.
More to come on our truly beautiful house rental. The way the sunlight bounced off every surface in the house warrants its own blog post!